Tv install.

Nothing remarkable here just logging in latest addition. I selected this Jenson 12 volt model that’s designed for RV’S and boats. My roommate installed it for me.

RV TV has protective coating on circuit boards.

It looks big in a 20 ft boat its only 19 inch. I wanted smaller but I couldn’t find one to handle the environment.
In addition I wanted something I could wall mount. I have a fire stick on the way and mast mounted HD antenna is next.

Have a great day.

Pellet stove limit switches.

I made this a last fall, just having time to post it. If you see I cut slits in the side close to the bottom flanges. The bracket is holding a proof of fire switch that turns on at 150 degrees and a high limit that turns on at 250 and 350. I may add a vacuum switch if I feel ike I need it. To mount I’ll just get 2 , 3 1/2 inch hose clamps then clamp it on the chimney pipe. The mounting location to be determined with a laser thermometer gun. When that happens ill check off item 359 of list.

Peace out.

Pellet stove update.

Winter is coming so it will be time for me to finalize the pellet stove installation. I built the stove about a year ago and installed it in a modified locker. There was already a vent in the locker because the head was there before. So it was perfect location for the exhaust pipe. The hopper was designed in AutoCAD and the pieces cut on a laser.


I screwed that up , it was smaller that I meant for it to be because I measured wrong.  I just added to the top to correct it.  I had some brass hinges laying around so I used them. So the hopper looks half ass but it is functional.

Pellet stove

This is just wired for testing. This gear motor came from a robotic website. It draws six amps on start up and about 3 continuous. I forgot the torque specs.  I used a auger assembly from a existing home pellet stove part supplier.  I mounted a home made controller in the electrical compartment that consist of a six dollar infinate cycle timer from eBay Programming is by two potentiometers on time , off time, in second this  repeats untill unit is turned off. The rpm is controlled by a ” drok” pulse wave modulating circuit in the unit. It also has reverse. Which by the way is useless so dont bother. I put it there in the event of a jam but if the pellets have no way out it jams amyway.  You don’t realise these things.  Hopefully that will not be a issue.

Saloon battery compartment covers.

Someone gave me some leftover interthane 990 two part industrial coating. The boat interior is white but these covers will be hidden by seat cushions. I put it on 3/16 luana. There were four small compartment covers. I wasnt happy about not having easy acess to my batteries so I had the middle cut out making two long covers one for each bench. If these dont hold up I’ll buy 1/8 FRP. ( Fiberglass reinforced panel)

Befor the cable post were very hard to get to. I wanted easy inspection of my cables. I will install these perforated metal vents to eliminate gas build up. The cut outs not very attractive. I’m going to have them match drilled to the seat to the cover holes and install counter sunk aluminum riv compression nuts to bolt these down. Then i can quit worrying about dropping something in here and shorting out a battery.

Electrical installation.

Long story on electrical work. I hope this helps some others on what is involve in adding significant amount of electrical to your boat. Unless you somewhat competent in electrical work be careful. Remember this FUSE AT THE POWER SUPPLY ! Make sure to use minimum 14 gauge through out for big safety margin. Fuse every circuit according to smallest wire and the appliance rating on the circuit. Another note, always use adhesive lined heavy duty shrink wrap on all Connections. The reason, so you can see any corrosion issues as they develop while doing ROUTINE electrical inspections. Some of these issues are potential life savers.

I could do very little in my boat because of a arm injury. Most of my time for months have been sitting in it sailing in my mind im my yard micro cruiser. I did manage to at least put in ten zip ties. To clean up this rats nest. To explain here , the red terminal block has jumpers that create two grouped circuits of three dome lights and three usb chargers / led battery voltage displays. Each group is led back to a dedicated switch on the main panel. I wanted central control of all electrical from inside the boat at the panel so folks can’t leave things on leaving me crawling around inside the boat turning things off. It’s a small boat and minimizing my crawling around inside the boat is important to me. I still have to wire up my propulsion 48 volt motor and controller. That’s on a back burner because I have a little structural changes to physically fit the motor in the well. It’s not going to be a huge issue , just money and time. As far as electrical I have a few things to do , none of which are major issues . Some wires are already roughed in loosely as I may want more wires in the bundles. My plan is to hide the wire bundles in wire looms once I know their bundle is finished. I would say my compartment could be much better but this boat may be temporary as it’s rather small.

Wires for some future add ons that are not necessities are being installed example : washdown pump, anchor winch, fresh water pump, 12 volt tv , 12 volt freezer, hot spot power supply station, am fm radio. Mandatory things yet to be installed or rewired: All running lights, masthead and spreader lights, 48 volt motor, controller, contactor, hall throttle control, motor well light , propane leak detector, voltage and amp display for 48 volt electrics on the weatherdeck, voltage/ amp meters in 12 volt panel. 120 volt / amp meter in the 12 volt panel, galvanic isolator for shore power battery charger connections, couple of 110 ac outlets, bilge pumps. All solar panels and 30 amp charge controller.

All most everything is roughed in with the exception of bilge pumps, transom and motor well lights. The mast light harness and VHF antenna are purchased and assembled. Will not install till mast is to be raised.

One step at a time.

Electric Outboard Power Pole Connector

Yesterday I crimped on the terminal ends to 3, 4 ft. runs of 4 gauge battery cables. I have a three phase motor. The terminal ends were 120 amp spade type that are the insert part of power pole connectors.

I sourced these because the standard Anderson type quick connections are rarely found in a three conductor unit. These power pole brand connectors interlock on the side and a roll pin can be inserted to lock them in place. It allows for as many to be linked as you want. Naturally to many would not be practical for connecting. The metal inserts crimp beautifully with no wings being formed as with SAE terminal ends. Most crimper die sets are metric. The inserts length is such that three adjacent crimps are needed on the 120 amp size to go the entire length. I wrapped them with adhesive lined double wall clear heat shrink tube. The clear will let you see if corrosion is taking place. You will need a hydraulic or leverage type crimping tool. Available on ebay and at varying cost. Light duty models as low as twenty-five dollars. You get what you pay for . I think I selected one around fifty dollars. It worked great. Cautionary note: Crimping with additional pressure once the dies meet is pointless and may lock them up and its difficult to get it to release. One of the e clips to the pin the handle pivots on fell off so watch them. The are a pain to get back on without pliers designed for them. Had to get help but its done.

Have a great day !